VOYAGE OF THE DONELSON PARTY

Journal of a Voyage, intended by God's permission, in the good

boat Adventure, from Fort Patrick Henry, on Holston River, to the French

Salt Springs on Cumberland River, kept by John Donelson,

December 22, 1779. Took our departure from the fort, and fell

down the river to the mouth of Reedy Creek, where we were stopped by the

fall of water and most excessive hard frost; and after much delay, and many

difficulties, we arrived at the mouth of Cloud 'S Creek on Sunday evening, the

2Oth February, 1780, where we lay by until Sunday, the 27th, when we took our

departure with sundry other vessels bound for the same voyage, and on the

same day struck the Poor-valley-shoal, together with Mr. Boyd and Mr. Rounsifer,

on which shoal we lay that afternoon and succeeding night in much distress.

Monday, February 28th. 1780.- In the morning, the water rising, we

got off the shoal, after landing thirty persons to lighten our boat. In

attempting to land on an island, received some damage, and lost sundry articles, and came to camp on the south shore, where we joined sundry other vessels

also bound down.

Tuesday, 29th.- Proceeded down the river and encamped on the north shore.,

the afternoon and following day proving rainy.

Wednesday, March 1st.- Proceeded on and encamped on the north shore, nothing happening that day remarkable.

March 2nd.- Rain about half the day; passed the mouth of French Broad

River, and about twelve o'clock Mr. Henry's boat, being driven on the point

of an island by the force of the current, was sunk, the whole cargo much damaged, and the crew's lives much endangered, which occasioned the whole fleet

to put on shore, and go to their assistance, but with much difficulty baled her

out and raised her, in order to take in her cargo again. The same afternoon

Reuben Harrison went out a hunting, and did not return that night, though

many guns were fired to fetch him in.

Friday, 3rd.- Early in the morning fired a four-pounder for the lost man,

sent out sundry persons to search the woods for him, firing many guns that day

and the succeeding night, but all without success, to the great grief of his

parents and fellow travelers.

Saturday, 4th.- Proceeded on our voyage, leaving old Mr. Harrison, with

some other vessels, to make further search for his lost son; about ten o'clock

the same day found him a considerable distance down the river, where Mr. Ben

Belew took him on board his boat. At three o'clock, three p. m., passed the

month of Tennessee River, and camped on the south shore, about ten miles below

the mouth of Tennessee.

Sunday, 5th.- Cast off and got under way before sunrise; the morning proving very foggy, many of the fleet were much bogged; camped on the

north shore, where Captain Hutching's negro man died, being much frosted in

his feet and legs, of which he died.

Tuesday, 7th.- Got under way very early; the day proving very windy, a

S. S. W., and the river being wide, occasioned a high sea, insomuch that some

of the smaller crafts were in danger, therefore came to the uppermost Chickamauga town, which was then evacuated, where we lay by that afternoon and

camped that night The wife of Ephraim Peyton was here delivered of a child.

Mr. Peyton had gone through by land with Captain Robertson.

Wednesday, 8th.- Cast off at ten 0 'clock, and proceeded down to an Indian

village, which was inhabited, on the south side of the river: they invited us to

come ashore; called us brothers, and showed other signs of friendship, insomuch

that Mr. John Caffrey and my son then on board, took a canoe which I had in

tow, and were crossing over to them, the rest of the fleet having landed on the

opposite shore. After they had gone some distance, a half-breed, who had called

himself Archy Coody, with several other Indians, jumped into a canoe, met

them, and advised them to return to the boat, which they did, together with

Coody, and several canoes, which left the shore and followed directly after him.

They appeared to be friendly. After distributing some presents among them, with which they seemed much pleased, we observed a number of Indians on the other side embarking in their canoes, armed and painted with red and black. Coody immediately made signs to his companions, ordering them to quit the boat, which they did, himself and another Indian remaining with us and telling us to move off instantly. We had not gone far before we discovered a number of Indians, painted, proceeding down the river as it were to intercept us. Coody, the half-breed, and his companion sailed with us for some time, and telling us that we had passed all the towns, and were out of danger, left us. But we had not gone far until we came in sight of another town, situated likewise on the south side of the river, nearly opposite a small island. Here again they invited us to come on shore, called us brothers, and observing the boats standing off for the opposite channel, told us that "their side of the river was better for boats to pass." And here we must regret the unfortunate death of young Mr. Payne, on board Captain Blackmore's boat, who was mortally wounded by reason of the boat running too near the northern shore, opposite the town where some of the enemy lay concealed; and the more tragical misfortune of poor Stuart, his family and friends, to the number of twenty-eight persons. This man had embarked with us for the Western country, but his family being diseased with small-pox, it was agreed between him and the company that be should keep some distance in the rear, for fear of the infection spreading; and he was warned each night when the encampment should take place by the sound of a horn. After we had passed this town, the Indians having now collected to a considerable number, observing his helpless situation, singled off from the rest of the fleet, intercepted him, killed and took prisoners the whole crew, to the great grief of the whole company, uncertain how soon they might share the same fate: their cries were distinctly heard by those boats in the rear. We still perceived them marching down the river in considerable bodies, keeping pace with us until the Cumberland Mountain withdrew them from our sight, when we were in hopes we had escaped them. We are now arrived at the place called Whirl, or Suck, where the river is compressed within less than half its common width above, by the Cumberland Mountain, which juts in on both sides. In passing through the upper part of these narrows, at a place described by Coody, which he termed the "boiling pot," a trivial accident had nearly ruined the expedition. One of the company, John Cotton, who was moving down in a large canoe, had attached it to Robert Cartwright's boat, into which he and his family had gone for safety. The canoe was here overturned, and the little cargo lost. The company, pitying his distress, conceded to halt and assist him in recovering his property. They had landed on the northern shore, at a level spot, and were going up to the place, when the Indians, to our astonishment, appeared immediately over us on the opposite cliffs, and commenced firing down upon us, which occasioned a precipitate retreat to the boats. We immediately moved off. The Indians, lining the bluffs along, continued their fire from the heights on our boats below, without doing any other injury than wounding four slightly. Jennings' boat is missing.

We have now passed through the Whirl. The river widens with a placid

and gentle current, and all the company appear to be in safety, except the

family of Jonathan Jennings, whose boat ran on a large rock projecting out

from the northern shore, and partly immersed in water, immediately at the

Whirl, where we were compelled to leave them, perhaps to be slaughtered by

their merciless enemies. Continued to sail on that day, and floated throughout

the following night.

Thursday, 9th.- This morning about four o'clock we were surprised by the

cries of "Help poor Jennings," at some distance in the rear. He had discovered us by our fires, and came up in the most wretched condition, He states, that as soon as the Indians had discovered his situation, they turned their whole

attention to him, and kept up a most galling fire on his boat. He ordered his

wife, a son nearly grown, a young man who accompanied them, and his two negroes, to throw all his goods into the river, to lighten their boat for the purpose of getting her off; himself returning their fire as well as he could, being a good soldier and an excellent marksman. Hut before they had accomplished their object, his son, the young man and the negro were wounded. Before they left the boat, Mm. Jennings, however, and the negro woman succeeded in unloading the boat, but chiefly by the exertions of Mrs. Jennings, who got out of the boat and shoved her off; but was near falling a victim to her own intrepidity, on account of the boat starting so suddenly as soon as loosened from the rocks. Upon examination he appears to have made a wonderful escape, for his boat is pierced in numberless places by bullets. It is to be remarked that Mrs. Peyton, who was the night before delivered of an infant, which was unfortunately killed in the hurry and confusion consequent upon such a disaster, assisted them, being frequently exposed to wet and cold then and afterwards, and that her health appears to be good at this time, and I think and hope she will do well. Their clothes were very much cut with bullets, especially Mrs. Jennings'.

Saturday, 11th.- Got under way after having distributed the family of Mrs.

Jennings in the other boats. Rowed on quietly that day, and encamped for the

night on the northern shore.

Sunday, 12th.- Set out, and after a few hours' sailing we heard the crowing of cocks, and soon came within view of the town: here they fired on us again without doing any injury. After running until about ten o'clock, came in

s]ght of the Muscle Shoals. Halted on the northern shore at the upper end of

the shoals, in order to search for the signs Captain James Robertson was to

make for us at that place. He set out from Holston in the fall of 1779, and

was to proceed by the way of Kentucky to the Big Salt Lick on Cumberland

River, with several others in company, was to come across from the Big Salt

Lick to the upper end of the shoals, there to make such signs that we might

know he had been there, and that it was practicable for us to go across by land.

But to our great mortification we can find none, from which we conclude that

it would not be prudent to make the attempt; and are determined, knowing ourselves to be in such imminent danger, to pursue our journey down the river.

After trimming our boats in the best manner possible, we ran through the shoals

before night. When we approached them they had a dreadful appearance to

those who had never seen them before. The water being high made a dreadful

roaring, which could be heard at some distance among the driftwood heaped

frightfully upon the points of the islands, the current running in every possible direction. Here we did not know how soon we should be dashed to pieces,

and all our troubles ended at once. Our boats frequently dragged on the bottom, and appeared constantly in danger of striking; they warped much as in a rough sea. But, by the hand of Providence, we are now preserved from the danger also. I do not know the length of this wonderful shoal: it has been represented to me to be twenty-five or thirty miles; if so, we must have descended very rapidly, as indeed we did, for we passed it in about three hours. Came to, and encamped on the northern shore, not far below the shoals, for the night.

Monday, l3th.- Set out early. On this day two boats, approaching too near

the shore, were fired on by the Indians; five of the crew were wounded, but not dangerously. Came to camp at night near the mouth of a creek. After kindling fires and preparing for rest, the company were alarmed on account of the incessant barking our dogs kept up; taking it for granted the Indians were attempting to surprise us, we retreated precipitately to the boats, fell

down the river about a mile, and encamped on the other shore. In the morning

I prevailed on Mr. Coffey and my son to cross below in a canoe, and return

to the place; which they did, and found an African negro we had left in the

hurrry, asleep by one of the fires. The voyagers then returned and collected

their utensils which had been left,

Wednesday, l5th.- Got under way, and moved on peaceably on the five

following days, when we arrived at the mouth of the Tennessee on Monday the

20th, and landed on the lower point, immediately on the bank of the Ohio. Our situation here is truly disagreeable. The river is very high and the current

rapid, our boats not constructed for the purpose of stemming a rapid stream,

our provision exhausted, tbe crews almost worn down with hunger and fatigue,

and know rot what distance we have to go, or what time it will take us to

reach our place of destination. The scene is rendered more melancholy, as several boats will not attempt to ascend the rapid current. Some intend to descend the Mississippi to Natchez; others are bound for the Illinois- among the rest my son-in-law and daughter. We now part, perhaps to meet no more, for I

am determined to pursue my course, happen what will.

Tuesday, 2lst.- Set out, and on this day came to the mouth of a river which I thought was the Cumberland. Some of the company declared it could not

be, it was so much smaller than we expected. But I never heard of any river

running in between the Cumberland and Tennessee. It appeared to flow with

gentle current. We determined, however, to make the trial, pushed up some

distance, and encamped for the night.

Saturday, 25th.- Today we were much encouraged; the river grows wider;

the current is very gentle; we are now convinced it is the Cumberland. I have

derived great assistance from a small square sail which was fixed up on the

day we left the mouth of the river; and to prevent any ill effects from sudden

flaws of wind, a man was stationed at each of the lower corners of the sheet, with. directions to give way whenever it was necessary

Sunday, 26th.- Got under way early; procured some buffalo meat; though

poor, it was palatable.

Monday, 27th.- Set out again; killed a swan, which was very delicious.

Tuesday, 28th.-Set out very early this morning; killed some buffalo.

Wednesday, 29th.- Proceeded up the river; gathered some herbs on the

bottoms of the Cumberland, which some of the company called "Shawnee salad."

Thursday, 3Oth.- Proceeded on our voyage. This day we killed some more

buffalo.

Friday, 81st.- Set out this day, and, after running some distance, met with Col. Richard Henderson, who was running the line between Virginia and North

Carolina. At this meeting we were much rejoiced, He gave us. every information we wished and further informed us that he had purchased a quantity of corn in Kentucky, to be shipped at the falls of Ohio, for the use of the Cumberland settlement. We are now without bread, and are compelled to limit the buffalo to preserve life. Worn out with fatigue, our progress at present is slow. Camped at night near the month of a little river, at which place, and below there is a handsome bottom of rich land. Here we found a pair of hand millstones, set up for grinding, but appeared not to have been used for a great length of time. Proceeded on quietly until the 12th of April, at which time we came to the mouth of a little river running in on the north side, by Moses Renfroe and his company called "Red River," up which they intended to settle. Here they took leave of us. We proceeded up Cumberland, nothing happening material until the 23rd, when we reached the first settlement on the north side of the river, one mile and a half below the Big Salt Lick, and called Eaton's Station, after a man of that name, who, with several other families, came through Kentucky and settled there.

Monday, April 24th-This day we arrived at our journey's end at the Big

Salt Lick, where we have the pleasure of finding Captain Robertson and his

company. It is a source of satisfaction to us to be enabled to restore to him

and others their families and friends, who were entrusted to our care, and who,

some time since, perhaps, despaired of ever meeting again. Though our prospects at present are dreary, we have found a few log cabins which have been built on a cedar bluff above the Lick by Captain Robertson and his company.

Tennessee, the Volunteer State Moore and Foster, The S. J. Clarke Publishing Co. 1923